Great catching up with Pierre-Vincent Girardin in his immaculate cellar in Meursault, tasting both his 2021 and 2022. Since its inauguration in 2017 vintage, Pierre-Vincent has been making some beautifully reductive and precise Chardonnay and incredibly delicate and polished Pinot Noir. Since my last tasting at the swanky new Domaine for the 2018 vintage, his wines took another step up in quality, especially his reds, which are now even more refined.
The estate has around 7 hectares of own / Domaine vines, c. 3 hectares rented and 5-7 hectares of purchased grapes vineyard.
In 2021, harvest started around the 20th September for Chardonnay, and October for Pinot Noir.
Winemaking
Inside the air-conditioned cellar (probably the cleanest cellar in Burgundy!) are filled with rows of large 456L new barrels and 350L barrels. Wines are aged in 100% new oak (for both red and whites). The reds are up to 100% wholecluster. Since 2019, they stopped filtering the reds, preventing any loss of aromas / flavours that can be unintentionally removed during filtration.
To summarise their style in one sentence. Their white are brilliantly modern, reductive and energetic. Reds are incredibly delicate and soft with a modern perspective.
Tasting Notes
Vosne Romanee Les Hauts 2021
A village plot located above the Premier Cru plot Les Beaux Monts. From a 0.4ha plot, 6 barrels made in 2021. Elegant array of red cherry, sweet oak spices, spiced strawberries. Light bodied, low tannins and low alcohol, really refreshing to see a village that is 12% alcohol these days. Drink from 2023 to 2038. (88-89/100)
Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts 2021
From 1 0.3ha plot, 4 barrels made, c. 40hl/ha. The 100% new oak and wholecluster style works really well for this cuvee, perfumed array of lifted red fruits, sweet oak spices, rose and sappy minerals on the mid-palate. A step up in concentration from Les Hauts, a nearby vineyard. A modest 12.5% alcohol, very refined and sleek tannins. Drink from 2024 to 2041. (90-91/100)
Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Suchots 2021
Similar to the Beaux Monts, the 100% new oak and wholecluster style works well for this cuvee, perfumed array of lifted mixed fruits, sweet oak spices, summer flowers and earthy and meaty touch. Slightly more extract and higher density than in the Beaux Monts. Lovely concentration, especially for a 2021 red without any heavy extraction. Modest 12.5% alcohol. Drink from 2024 to 2041. (90-91/100)
Echezeaux 2021
From Les Poulailleres. This 2021 Echezeaux offers beautiful perfume, lifted fresh berries and exotic spices. Nice stemmy undertone with candied oak spices. Stands out as one of the most polished and modern Echezeaux. (92/100)
Bourgogne Blanc ‘Eclat de Calcaire’ 2021
Eclat de Calcaire means “Crushing limestone”. From Meursault and Pommard. Great energy and sweetness from the oak toast, fresh citrus, green apples, and reductive smoke. Beautifully crafted Bourgogne blanc that is precise and lovely to drink young. Drink from 2023 – 2033. (87/100)
Puligny Montrachet Les Enseignères 2021
From purchased grapes. Only 1 large barrel made (i.e. 600 bottles). Energetic array of citrus, peach and lifted wood toast. Light bodied with high acidity. Tightly knitted with lovely precision. Very enjoyable young. (88-89/100)
Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes 2021
1,200 bottles made. Beautifully laced ripe citrus and lime fruits. Reductive and energetic. Well made for a 2021. Lightish body with good fruit intensity / brightness and acidity. (89-90-100)
Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrieres 2021
1 x 456L and 3 x 350L bottles (c. 1,500 bottles made). Perfumed and sleek bouquet of ripe citrus fruits, white flowers and exotic spices. Smart reduction. Elegant and well balanced, medium bodied yet with beautifully laced dry extract, great length. One of the highlights of 2021 tasting at the Domaine. Drink from 2025 to 2046. (92-94/100)
Corton Charlemagne 2021
From 2 plots. Powerful and concentrated array of ripe stone fruits, oily citrus and smokey wood toast. A powerful yet precise Corton Charlemagne. Great energy and acidity with tightly wound fresh fruits. Needs a bit of time to mellow out. (90-91/100)
