Revisiting the 2003 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé with Jean-Luc Pépin. A roller coaster vintage with some outperformer and many hit and miss bottles due to the extreme heat. 2003 is one of the most unusual vintages in Burgundy that growers and drinkers will remember vividly for a long time.
The 2003 Bourgogne Blanc is drinking at its peak and tasted like a Northern Rhone Blanc. Interestingly there were no acidification in their Musigny, Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru (mini-Musigny) and Les Amoureuses. My favourite of their 2003 was Les Amoureuses, not much heat or clumsiness, showing gently spiced floral notes. Jean-Luc blinded us on a bottle of 1989 Musigny, which no one managed to guess it correctly (my guess was 1993 Les Amoureuses).
In 2003, most of the grapes were picked 80 days after harvest compared to the usual 100 days. In fact some producers were still on their holiday when grapes were met to be picked! 2003 was some of the most husky and punchy wines Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé has ever made, they are jammy and robust with ultra-ripe tannins. 2003 arguably is a good vintage but for Burgundy drinkers seeking for finesse and refinement should avoid 2003 completely.
Tasting Notes
Bourgogne Blanc 2003
Ex-Domaine bottle. Bottled in Jan 2005. The 2003 Bourgogne Blanc offers a maturing nose of ultra-ripe apricot & tropical fruits, butterscotch and mild honied rancid butter. Rich and full on, premier Cru weight with glossy texture. Not much acidity (resembles 2005), a bit clumsy. If tasted blind, I would call this a Northern Rhone white than anything near Chardonnay. (86/100)
Chambolle Musigny 2003
The Chambolle Musigny 2003 is maturing and is drinking at peak today. Jammy red cherry, tertiary nose of dark plums, forest floor and underbrush after cleaning an old barrel. Easy drinking without much finesse. Low-pitch spices on the finish. (83/100)
Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru 2003
The Chambolle Musigny Premier Cru 2003 is a huge step up in quality from the Chambolle Musigny village. Not a surprise as Vogüé Chambolle 1er Cru comes from the young vines of Musigny. Dark and brooding blackberries, cherry cola, scented spicy summer flowers. Full bodied, chubby, slightly cloying on the palate. Grand Cru weight but overriped in my opinion. (88/100)
Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 2003
The Chambolle Les Amoureuses was my favourite wine from Vogüé in 2003 (normally I prefer their Musigny but their Musigny was overripe in 2003). No acidification. Perfumed bouquet of intense dark fruits, cranberries, jammy cherry, old barrel scents and vivid perfume. Grand Cru weight with great length and scented inner-core. Great length and flows down easily. Drink over the next two decades. (92-93/100)
Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2003
The Bonnes Mares 2003 offers a dark and dense array of black fruits, coffee beans, roasted herbs and new oak spices. Ultra-full bodied and intense, blackberry concentrate with a shot of expresso. An iron first with velvet glove. Intensity of 2005 combined with 1999. Not as floral as Les Amoureuses. (90-91/100)
Musigny Grand Cru 2003
The Musigny 2003 is an absolute beast, flexing Musigny muscle. Dense jammy fruits of blackberries, dark plums and sweet black cherry. Incredibly rich and full bodied. Scented fruits yet more reserved than the Premier Cru (Musigny young vines). Young and took some time to show in the glass, clearly it is ageing very slowly. Same with the last bottle I had, I still find this overripe towards the finish and lack refinement of Musigny. (91-92/100)
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