When I was in Burgundy a couple of weeks ago, I heard many young generation winemakers recommending Domaine Hubert Lamy wines, they all said Olivier Lamy is making some of the best wines from Saint Aubin and it is a must-try. I have to admit Domaine Hubert Lamy is completely new to me but after tasting my first Domaine Hubert Lamy wines last week, I am sold!
Olivier Lamy, the son of Hubert Lamy is making one of the most outstanding wines in Saint Aubin if not the entire Cote de Beaune, Olivier Lamy has not only put Domaine Hubert Lamy on the map, but also pushed the boundaries of less prestigious appellations in Burgundy. Olivier Lamy was trained at Meo Camuzet, more famous for their Pinot Noir than Chardonnay. The style of the wine is one of the most refined in Saint Aubin, filled with energy and tension. One can only imagine if Olivier Lamy gets his hands on some Grand Cru vineyards. A rising star in Saint Aubin!
Saint Aubin La Princée 2014
This 2014 Hubert Lamy Saint Aubin La Princée is one of the best value white wines I have tasted in a long time, retails at £25 a bottle. La Princée is a village wine that comes from a blend of 10 parcels in Saint Aubin. Gentle luminous citrus fruits mixed with hints of struck match. Clean and very precise with a creamy touch on the mid-palate, nervy tension. I am a huge fan of Lamy wines, Olivier Lamy style of wine focuses on precision and is never fat even in hot vintages like 2015. Subtle reduction with great energy and explosive flinty minerals on the palate. Saint Aubin outperformance. (87/100)
Saint Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes 2013
Les Frionnes is a Premier Cru vineyard on the south-west side of Saint Aubin. Olivier Lamy wines consistently show great richness and clarity. This Saint Aubin is not weighty enough to compete with Meursault or Puligny Montrachet, but it has the tension and boldness to challenge more prestigious appellations. Bright citrus, clean minerals, fresh cream and subtle spices. Good richness and boldness. (86+/100)
Saint Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes 2014
The 2014 Saint Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes is brilliantly bright and youthful but it is drinking so well already. Great detail and subtlety. Intense freshness and juicy citrus on the palate. Ripe stone fruits, laser focused with a flinty backbone. Great elegance and tension. Subtle sweetness from the fresh tree fruits. (88/100)
Saint Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes 2015
Les Frionnes is a cool climate vineyard, and grapes here sometimes struggle to fully ripen. Fortunately for the grape growers in Les Frionnes, the effect of global warming has led to higher number of warmer vintages and riper grapes in Les Frionnes. 2015 was a hot year in Burgundy, some Chardonnay in 2015 are overripe and appear flabby, but not Saint Aubin. This wine has a perfect ripeness and focused acidity. A tingly sense of electricity and fresh white flowers. Great brightness. (85+/100)
Saint Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 2013
The En Remilly is one of the cuvées of Domaine Hubert Lamy. Olivier Lamy owns 2 ha of En Remilly, one parcel close to Clos de la Chatenière and one parcel near Chevalier Montrachet, planted in 1989. There is an impressive volume of minerality here, reminded me of Raveneau from Chablis. Good ripeness of citrus fruits and vibrant yellow fruits. The fruits are finely tuned with subtle wood toast. I would most likely guess an excellently made Chassagne Montrachet village wine if tasted blind. Subtle floral. Fine lees and great tension. Blunt. (88/100)
Saint Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard 2014
Derriere Chez Edouard is a 1.7 ha steep sloped Premier Cru behind the village of St Aubin, it is also one of Olivier Lamy’s finest vineyards in Saint Aubin. The 2014 Hubert Lamy Derriere Chez Edouard offers great energy and well defined fruits of bright citrus, pear and sweet spices. Great tension on the palate with sophisticated mouthfeel. Great intensity and weight that can be mistaken as a Chassagne Montrachet Premier Cru. Medium plus bodied and crisp acidity. Lovely salinity and nervy fruits on the finish. Very fine for Saint Aubin. (90/100)
Saint Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Hautes Densite 2013
This is my first bottle of Derriere chez Edouard Hautes Densite from Hubert Lamy and it is a notch up in power than the normal Derriere chez Edouard. Planted densely at 30,000 vines per hectares in 2001, where the yields are half the normal size per vine. Firm reduction with bright tree fruits and buttery toast. Rich white peach, orchard fruits, and zingy lime. Lovely salinity expression with more fruit concentration than normal cuvee. Energetic and powerful. (91/100)