Jean-Marc Boillot (also known as J. M. Boillot) is the grandson of Henri Boillot as well as the maternal grandson of Etienne Sauzet. Jean-Marc Boillot worked with his grandfather Henri Boillot, his father Jean and his brother (also named Henri) at the Domaine Henri Boillot since 1967. In 1984, Jean-Marc left the domaine after a family disagreement and worked as a winemaker at Olivier Leflaive for 4 years while also making wines from 2 ha of vineyards under his own label. In 1988, he left Olivier Leflaive and put his full attention on his own estate, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot in Pommard.
Jean-Marc Boillot inherited some vineyards from Henri Boillot as well as one-third of Domaine Etienne Sauzet’s vineyard holdings in 1993. Jean-Marc Boillot now owns 10.5 ha of vineyards in Burgundy as well as a property in Languedoc, Domaine des Roques.
Jean-Marc Boillot prefers planting vines at high density so the vines compete with each other for water and nutrients. Jean-Marc likes to trim the branches to 1.2 m, allowing the roots to grow deeper (though nothing as crazy as Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux). Yields are low compared to Henri Boillot to create rich and intense wines. Alcoholic fermentation in oak barrels, 100% malolactic fermentation. The Les Combettes spends around 11 months in oak barrels without racking, around 25% new oak with medium toast used.
Les Combettes is one of the finest Premier Cru vineyards in Puligny Montrachet along with Les Demoiselles (part of Le Cailleret) and Les Pucelles. Les Combettes is located at the northern end of Puligny Montrachet, sits below Champ Canet and above Les Referts, bordering Meursault Les Charmes. Les Combettes is 7 hectare big with gentle slope, notable producers from this vineyard: Leflaive, Etienne Sauzet, Dujac, Jacques Prieur and Francois Carillon.
Wines from Les Combettes is often described as a mixture of Puligny Montrachet and Meursault, it has the rich creamy and subtle nuttiness of Meursault as well as the pure minerals of Puligny Montrachet.
The daughter of Jean-Marc Boillot, Lydie Alzingre Boillot served us a vertical tasting of their Les Combettes.
2006 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes
The 2006 Puligny Montrachet Les Combettes is still young and not showing much development. This 2006 Les Combettes shows more Meursault characteristics of nuts than Puligny Montrachet pure minerals. Good weight on the palate with just adequate acidity. Good roundness and concentration. Though I find 2006 white Burgundy a bit too flabby and often lack vibrancy and focus. Subtle new oak spices and honey. (88/100)
2011 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes
I am quite a big fan of 2011 white Burgundies, they are generally very accessible and charming at an early stage, yet it doesn’t lack any component for mid-long term ageing. This 2011 Les Combettes offers an elegant fruit profile of yellow fruits, red apples, white flowers. Lighter weight than 2014 and 2016 but very charming and stylish on the nose. Soft and gentle on the finish. Almost ready to drink now. (90/100)
2014 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes
The 2014 Les Combettes displays a lot of substance and energy on mid-palate. Round and ripe fruits and bright citrus. Good nerve and expansive minerals, not too oaky. Great concentration and fruit density of ripe white fruits, citrus and subtle tropical peach aromas. Great backbone and zesty-persistent finish. This will easily age for more than two decades. (92/100)
2016 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes
The 2016 Les Combettes is still taut from youthfulness (recently bottled). Lovely fruits although still a little raw. Lovely aromatic profile and nice concentration, reminds me parts of 2012 white Burgundy with some of 2013 richness. The 2016 has slightly more phenolic ripeness than 2014, though it may not have the same tension gene. Good balance of fruits and depth. Good potential. (91/100)