Mugneret is a well-known family name in Burgundy, there are currently four Domaines in Vosne Romanee with the Mugneret name. Mongeard-Mugneret, Dominique Mugneret, Gerard Mugneret, and Georges Mugneret Gibourg. Of all the Mugneret estates, Domaine Georges Mugneret Gibourg is consistently the most outstanding estate.
I was very excited when I knew I was visiting Domaine Georges Mugneret Gibourg, one of the finest addresses in Burgundy. Marie-Andrée Mugneret opened the garage door punctually for our 2:00 pm appointment.
Jeanne Gibourg married André Mugneret in 1928 and created Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg in 1933. Jeanne and André’s only son Dr. Georges Mugneret who was an ophthalmologist in Dijon decided to change career and pursuit the family winemaking business. Dr. Georges Mugneret played an important role in the estate, not only has he took over in the late 1950s and improved the quality of the wine, Georges also successfully added more vineyards (Clos Vougeot, Ruchottes Chambertin, NSG 1er Cru, and Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes) into the family holding, hence created a ‘separate’ Domaine Georges Mugneret for political reasons (French tax, inheritance, etc). Fear not, the two labels Domaine Mugneret Gibourg and Domaine Georges Mugneret were made in the same estate and by the same winemaker.
Dr. Georges Mugneret sadly passed away in 1988, leaving his wife Jacqueline and their two daughters Marie-Christine and Marie-Andrée behind. Courageously, Marie-Christine and Jacqueline took over the estate and continued making wines the same way Georges Mugneret did. Marie-Andrée joined the team a few years later. In 2009, they successfully merged the two domaines back together creating Domaine Georges Mugneret Gibourg. Currently Marie-Andrée and Marie-Christine are in charge of the domaine.
Echezeaux Grand Cru, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, Ruchottes Chambertin Grand Cru, Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots, Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Vignes Rondes, Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Feusselottes, Vosne Romanee, Nuits Saint Georges, Bourgogne Rouge.
Note: More vineyard addition from 2017 vintage onwards.
Domaine Georges Mugneret Gibourg is a small production estate even in Burgundy standards, they only produce wines from 8 hectares of vineyards until very recently. Some of their vineyards were leased to relatives in 1966, and now they are gradually taking back parts of the vineyards that was rented to relatives. In 2017, they added 4 hectares of vineyards to their holdings, hence the production of 2017 for Domaine Georges Mugneret Gibourg has increased. The Domaine is currently constructing a new cellar which would connect with the old cellar to increase the storage capacity.
The style of wine hasn’t changed much over the past few decades, the only changes after 1988 was using sorting table and gentler pressing. I still find myself using the word pure, fragrant and feminine when describing their wines. 100% destem across all the wines. Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg buys barrels from four coopers. Mostly selecting medium toast and fine wood. Elevage of around 18 months.
Marie-Andrée blending the Clos Vougeot in the glass from four different barrels.
Bourgogne Rouge 2016
This is no ordinary Bourgogne rouge, this wine comes from Les Lutinières, which is a vineyard located in the south-east of Vosne Romanee, next to the village vineyards of Vosne Romanee. Normally, 10 barrels is produced every year. In 2016, only 3 barrels produced due to the frost. The youngest vines are planted in 1955, naturally the Bourgogne Rouge is very low yield due to millerandage, around 20-22hl/ha. Normally 10% new oak for the Bourgogne rouge, but due to the small production of 2016, 33% new oak applied. Incredibly rich and dark for a Bourgogne Rouge, fragrant Vosne Romanee spices and wood toast. Ripe dark cherry and desirable concentration. A Bourgogne rouge that punches above its weight! (86-88/100)
Vosne Romanee 2016
The Vosne Romanee comes from a blend of vineyards, La Croix Blanche (near Nuits St Georges), Les Chalandins (near Clos Vougeot), La Colombière and a couple smaller vineyards behind the estate in the Vosne Romanee village. The 2016 Vosne Romanee offers a densely packed bouquet of dark cherry, blackberry, fine-wood smoke and spices, and a touch of cocoa. Very rich and juicy with great phenolic ripeness. Many of their village vineyards are affected by millerandage, which adds more concentration to the berries. (88-90/100)
Nuits Saint Georges Premier Cru Les Chaignots 2016
The vines at Les Chaignots is around 45 years old. It offers an excellent concentration and depth. Dark cherry, sandalwood, ample toast and ripe tannic backbone. 40-45% new oak applied in 2016. Tannins are more apparent than the Vosne Romanee. Great complexity with a rigid structure. (89-91/100)
Ruchottes Chambertin Grand Cru 2016
Domaine Mugneret Gibourg owns 0.60 ha of Ruchottes Chambertin in Ruchottes du bas. 50% of the vines were planted in 1950 and 50% of the vine were re-planted in 2000. The grapes were declassified to Gevrey Chambertin Premier Cru until recently. The Ruchottes Chambertin is a significant step-up in concentration and depth. Superb fragrant of blackberries, juicy black cherry, cigar box, rose petal and clean earthy scent of Gevrey Chambertin. Great complexity and lushness. A combination of sleek and power. (94-95/100)
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2016
Domaine Mugneret Gibourg owns one of the finest plots in Clos Vougeot. Their plot is right next to the Chateau de Vougeot at the top of Montiotes hautes, not far from the mighty Musigny. Only 4 barrels produced in 2016. 70% new oak. The concentration of the Clos Vougeot is slightly higher than the fragrant Ruchottes Chambertin. Nicely laced blackberries, wood spices, purple flowers and ripe black cherries. Great density and harmonious bouquet. Full-bodied, intense with lovely acidity. One of the best Clos Vougeot out there. (94-95/100)
The Echezeaux comes from two plots, 0.5 ha of Les Rouges du Bas and 0.5 ha of Les Quartiers de Nuits. The production of 2016 Echezeaux is 70% less than usual due to the frost, roughly 15 hl/ha. Densely packed dark fruits and intense minerals. In-depth juicy fruits, sandalwood, slight cassis and raspberry. 70% new oak. Great nerve and refinement with exotic spices and richness. Absolutely wonderful and filled with finesse. (94-95/100)
Interesting fact: The picture on the Domaine Georges Mugneret Gibourg label is a Catholic Saint, Savant. A wine grape protector.