Christophe Perrot-Minot is one of the most noteworthy winemakers in Burgundy, he has been making one of the most sublime style of Pinot Noir after he changed style in 2010. Visiting Christophe last month and tasting his portfolio of 2017 was truly exhilarating.
Christophe owns 14.2 hectares of vineyards in Cote de Nuits from Nuits Saint Georges to Gevrey Chambertin.
Christophe Perrot-Minot said his style changed since 2010 vintage, especially with the introduction of high percentage of whole cluster. In 2017, Christophe got between 35-38hl/ha, considerably lower than many producers. Maximum 20% new oak from Francois Freres and 1 year old barrels from Domaine de la Romanee Conti. 50-60% whole cluster. Wines were racked in Jan 2019.
Overall the ripeness of the stems in 2017 were less consistent than previous vintages, whereby some of the wines (seen in a few village and Premier Cru wines below) are less ripe and shows some greenness in the wine, most of his wines outperformed consider the vintage, and certainly one of the best red Burgundy producer to look out for in this vintage.
Bourgogne Rouge 2017
The Bourgogne Rouge is a blend of declassified grapes from both Gevrey Chambertin and Morey Saint Denis (this year including Rue de Vergy, located above Clos de Tart). As expected, Perrot-Minot’s Bourgogne Rouge punches above its weight. Good richness with lovely juicy redcurrant. The whole cluster scents and oak spices integrated well. It could easily compete with village wines. (84/100)
Vosne Romanee Vieilles Vignes 2017
Christophe owns 1.2 hectares of Ormes des Chalandins. This 2017 Vosne Romanee offers a transparent sweet vanilla and clove spices with juicy mixed berries, red cherry, supple herbs, rose petals and mild toast. Easy charmer with good weight for a village. Trace of green stems. (85-87/100)
Chambolle Musigny 2017
In 2013, Christophe started making 1 cuvee in Chambolle Musigny rather 2 cuvees to reduce confusions. This Chambolle Musigny is composed of 60% Bussieres and 40% Combe En Oveau. Fleshy red fruits of raspberries, some vegetal notes from green stems. Lovely perfumes. A village wine with Premier Cru qualities. (88-89/100)
Gevrey Chambertin 2017
The Gevrey Chambertin comes from La Justice, a 1.5 hectare plot with 50 year old vines. Perrot Minot’s Gevrey Chambertin village consistently shows well, lifted expression of the earthy soil and meaty fruits of Gevrey Chambertin. Dark cherries, smoked spices, pretty stems and high wood toast. Gentle ethereal notes on the finish, a feminine expression of La Justice. (89/100)
Vosne Romanee ‘Champs Perdrix’ 2017
Perdrix is a village plot located above La Tache and next to Aux Reignots, and Perrot Minot owns the sweet spot of Perdrix. Intense dark fruits mixed with sweet stems. Tightly laced black cherry, dark plums, and violets. Slightly green from the stems with Premier Cru qualities and good amount of tannins. (90+/100)
Nuits Saint Georges Les Murgers de Cras VV 2017
Perrot-Monint started making this new ‘declassified village’ cuvee in 2010, it is composed of 3 Premier Cru vineyards that are next to each other – 60% Richemore, 20% Les Murgers, 20% Aux Cras. The vines are on average 60 years old and roughly 20% of the grapes suffered millerandage. Deeply laced spices that resembles Vosne Romanee. Juicy red fruits, whole cluster lift with great structure of Nuits Saint Georges. Proper Premier Cru weight with good complexity. (91/100)
Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru La Riotte 2017
Perrot-Minot owns 0.6 hectares of La Riotte. Floral roasted herbs of Morey Saint Denis, juicy red currant, airy minerals on the palate. A charming Premier Cru with good energy and purity. This should be approachable in a few years. (91/100)
Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Comb d’Oveau Cuvee Ultra VV 2017
Perrot-Minot owns 0.82 hectares of Combe d’Oveau located right above Musigny. He owns the oldest parcel of Combe d’Oveau, 70 year old vines. This is one of the most fragrant Chambolle Musigny in 2017 – bubbly red fruits and floral nose of juicy red currant, crunchy cherries and scented rose candles. The stems are riper than previous showings with no greenness, only sweet spices and rose petals. Great concentration and soft tannins. (92/100)
Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru La Richemone Cuvee Ultra VV 2017
The Nuits Saint Georges La Richemone Cuvee Ultra is one of my favourite wines of Perrot-Minot. Christophe owns 1.9 hectares of La Richemone but only 0.9 hectares (planted in 1902) of it goes into the Cuvee Ultra. Smokey dark fruits of blackberries, juicy redcurrant, and sweet whole cluster lift. Floral rose petals with tightly laced fruits, great density and tension. A brilliant Nuits St Georges Premier Cru with beautiful Vosne Romanee qualities. (93/100)
Chapelle Chambertin Grand Cru 2017
The grapes of Chapelle Chambertin comes from Pierre Damy’s vineyards, 1 hectare of 90 year old vines. I often find Chapelle Chambertin offers a bright earthy red currant nose that resembles Griotte Chambertin. Grand Cru weight with juicy mixed berries and crunchy minerals. The whole cluster and oak spices will need a few more years to integrate. (93/100)
Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2017
Perrot-Minot owns 1 hectare of Charmes Chambertin located just across the road to Chambertin, vines are approximately 50 years old. This is an elegant Charmes Chambertin with bubbly red fruits and transparent gravel and wet stones. Dark berries mixed with lifted oak spices and ripe stems. Medium bodied with fine grained tannins. A flamboyant Charmes Chambertin that reminds me of Armand Rousseau Charmes Chambertin, possibly better. (94/100)
Mazoyeres Chambertin Grand Cru 2017
I have a soft spot for Perrot-Minot’s Mazoyeres Chambertin, even though Mazoyeres is located further away from the Grand Cru vineyards in Gevrey Chambertin, Christophe’s Mazoyeres offers a step up in concentration and depth than his Charmes Chambertin. 1 hectare vineyard with 65 year old vines. Great energy and serious punch. Darker toasted wood and low pitched berries. Great density and integration of stems under the layer of gloss. (94+/100)
Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru 2017
Perrot-Minot’s Clos de Beze comes from 3 plots, with 55, 45 and 85 years old vines. This Clos de Beze offers an impressive intensity of floral spices and stemmy lift on the nose. Deeply laced bouquet of roses, juicy dark berries with earthy flavours of Clos de Beze. Full bodied with great concentration and energy. Ethereal finish. (95/100)
Chambertin Grand Cru 2017
The Chambertin offers a denser package of fruits and gorgeous sweet floral scents on the nose. Brilliant intensity and a rounder mouthfeel compared to the Clos de Beze. Energetic ripe berries and dark cherry with glossy oak spices and ripe stems. Full bodied with wonderful backbone, a slight step-up from the Clos de Beze. Reminds me of Domaine Dujac, possibly sweeter even. Splendid length. (96+/100)