An educational evening of Corton Charlemagne masterclass covering both principal and “up and coming” producers from both negotiant and own domaine grapes. The key takeaways from the Corton Charlemagne dinner was:
- Never fully rely on producer reputation (Jadot > Meo & Chandon Briailles > de Montille)
- Reductive new oak modern style are popular (Dugat Py and Pierre Vincent Girardin)
- Coche is Coche
Aperitif – Dom Perignon 1996
The 1996 Dom Perignon is drinking superbly today. A rich and exuberant nose of zingy ripe orchard fruit, creamy biscuit and hints of brioche. Medium bodied with great acidity. (92/100)
Flight 1
Louis Jadot Domaine des Heritiers Corton Charlemagne 2012
From own Domaine wine. A pretty array of fresh buttery white tree fruits and hints of buttery popcorn. Not showing much heat from this warm vintage. Expressive and charming, a huge outperformance given the reputation of this large negotiant. Drink now to 2040. (89/100)
Meo Camuzet Corton Charlemagne 2011
Meo Camuzet buys grapes from 2 separate parcels, one on the Pernard side and the other on Aloxe side. Ripe citus fruits, slightly hot tropical fruits. Big and clumsy with overripe fruits, disappointing consider most 2011 are gentle and approachable. (84/100)
Dugat Py Corton Charlemagne 2011
2011 was the first vintage of Dugat Py Corton Charlemagne and it is a tremendous wine. Only 3-4 barrels made per year from the Pernard side. Powerful nose of smart reduction with sweet and buttery oak spices. Fresh white orchard fruits, seductive oak toast and smoked minerals. Buttery popcorn on the palate. Impressive energy and vibrancy. (91/100)
Wine of the flight: Dugat Py Corton Charlemagne 2011
Flight 2
Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne 2005
Ex-domaine bottle. Fresh and primary fruits with not a hint of maturing note. Textbook Bonneau du Martray oily texture, especially in 2005. Glossed tree fruits, nutty white flowers. Broad-shouldered with hint of alcohol on the palate showing the warm vintage. (88/100)
Bouchard Corton Charlemagne 1983
Bouchard owns a 3.65ha plot in Le Corton. This bottle of 1983 Corton Charlemagne is fully matured. Honied apricot fruits with lean citrus. Lightish bodied with linear acidity. Interesting but not enjoyable for most who enjoys white wines on the slightly fresher end of the spectrum. (79/100)
Remoissenet Corton Charlemagne 1983
From purchased grapes. This 1983 is lean and green showing vegetal notes of asparagus, lime and undergrowth. Colour looks very fresh and not much development, but not an enjoyable wine. Weak vintage. (74/100)
Wine of the flight: Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne 2005
Flight 3
Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne 1999
Ex-domaine bottle. This bottle barely showed signs of its age, a generous bouquet of oily white orchard fruits, ripe and juicy lemon and mild white flowers. Full-bodied with nutty texture and adequate acidity. Drink now to 2045. (91/100)
Henri Boillot Corton Charlemagne 2000
A much better wine than the previous bottle. Henri Boillot leases vineyard in Corton Charlemagne. This 2000 shows a maturing profile of golden orchard fruits and juicy citrus. Fairly creamy with good evolution. However it appeared simple next to the 1999 Coche Dury Corton Charlemagne. (89/100)
Coche Dury Corton Charlemagne 1999
A pleasure to drink this 1999 Coche Dury Corton Charlemagne. Coche Dury owned a 0.33 ha parcel in Corton Charlemagne (subsequently acquired another parcel in the end of 2012)
Rich and alluring with traces of reduction. Layers of orchard fruits, oily oak toast with exotic fruits and subtle summer flowers. Full bodied with serious depth and complexity. It stands out from the Corton Charlemagne tasting in blind. Deep and alluring. Unsurprisingly everyone’s wine of the night in the Corton Charlemagne masterclass. A league on its own. (94/100)
Wine of the flight: Coche Dury Corton Charlemagne 1999
Flight 4
Pierre Yves Colin Morey Corton Charlemagne 2014
PYCM acquires grapes from 2 parcels, approximately half from Ladoix side and other half from Pernard side. Strangely this PYCM Corton Charlemagne 2014 wasn’t as reductive as the usual PYCM, or maybe it was stood against Pierre Girardin, which was incredibly reductive and powerful. Generous leesy texture with racy fresh lemons and ripe apples. Lacks a bit of energy in comparison to the Pierre Girardin. (89/100)
Pierre Vincent Girardin Corton Charlemagne 2017
2017 was the first vintage of Pierre Vincent Girardin, the son of Vincent Girardin. A young but gorgeous bouquet of reductive, buttery sweet oak toast and lacy white orchard fruits. Energetic and intense. Full bodied with crisp acidity with fine nuances on the finish. Excellent modern style. (92+/100)
Wine of the flight: Pierre Vincent Girardin Corton Charlemagne 2017
Flight 5
Chandon de Briailles Corton Blanc 2014
The Chandon de Briailles Corton Blanc comes from 2 plots, top part of Les Bressandes (80%) and Les Chaumes. This 2014 Corton Blanc offers a sweet exotic fruit bouquet of lychee, spiced citrus and refreshing acidity. Flamboyant fruits with good focus. (88/100)
De Montille Corton Charlemagne 2014
A disappointing showcase of de Montille Corton Charlemagne. Domaine de Montille purchased a 12.02ha vineyard in Les Pougets in 2004, it was originally planted with Pinot Noir vines but they grafted Chardonnay vines over it after the acquisition. Wild tree fruits with hints of petrol note (result of early harvest?). Steely with lean body and straightforward body. (84/100)
Wine of the flight: Chandon de Briailles Corton Blanc 2014
