Domaine Robert Groffier made a lovely array of Pinot Noir in 2018. Juicy and transparent with good balance (13.5% alcohol), a modern expression of Chambolle Musigny. Interesting to observe the gradual increase of whole bunch and new oak as we go from Bougogne to the Grand Crus, from 100% destemmed and no new oak in their Bourgogne to their 100% whole cluster and 100% new oak Chambertin Clos de Beze. In 2018, Bonnes Mares was particularly powerful and intense, though I have a soft spot for the Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Hauts Doix, sexy fragrant (30% whole cluster) resembles the elegance of Les Amoureuses.
Harvest started on the 30th of August and they managed to retain freshness really well. On average 13.5% alcohol. Since 2017 vintage, Domaine Robert Groffier only bottled with top quality corks that has been tested for TCA. Japan has been and still is the largest export market.
Winemaking
Wines were aged in oak barrels for 12 months then 3 months in stainless steel tanks. They aim to achieve malolactic fermentation as late as possible. New oak and inclusion of stems varies between cuvees. From 100% destemmed and no new oak in their Bourgogne to their 100% whole cluster and 100% new oak Chambertin Clos de Beze.
Tasting Notes
Bourgogne Passetoutgrain 2018
Blend of 15% Gamay and 85% Pinot Noir, all from Morey Saint Denis. 100% destemmed. Simple and easy going. Ambient cherries and bubbly red berries from Gamay fruits. Good acidity with slightly rustic backbone. Good ripeness. (80-81/100)
Bourgogne 2018
100% destemmed and no new oak. A blend of 2 parcels from Vougeot and Morey Saint Denis. A generous nose of red fruits, fresh raspberries, and mild earth. Good ripeness and richness for its weight. Fruit forward with fine tannins. (82/100)
Gevrey Chambertin 2018
The Gevrey Chambertin comes from his 1ha plot in Les Seuvrees, a village plot located next to Charmes Chambertin. A good step up from the Bourgogne rouge, grapes from lower sloped / flat plots gained good richness in 2018. 15% new oak. Refreshing red fruits with clean gevrey earthy tone and juicy cherry. Approachable and slightly rustic. Crunchy red berries on the finish. (84/100)
Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Hauts Doix 2018
Groffier owns 0.9ha in Les Hauts Doix, a Premier Cru located right next to Les Amoureuses. 25% new oak and 30% whole cluster. A beautiful fragrant of rose petals, charming red cherries and raspberries. Lovely fruit concentration with good acidity and elegance. One of my favourite wines at Robert Groffier. Very good. (88-89/100)
Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers 2018
100% whole bunch in Les Sentiers. Dark fruited tone of blackberries, ripe dark cherries, and hints of violet. Les Sentiers’ structure resembles Bonnes Mares and requires extensive cellaring to show its full potential. Fine-grained tannins with good backbone. Wait 10 years. (88-90/100)
Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2018
The Bonnes Mares was a big step up from the Chambolle Musigny 1er Crus. Powerful and fragrant with proper Grand Cru intensity. A generous yield of 45hl/ha in 2018. 70% whole cluster. A densely packed bouquet of blackberries, ripe stems and smoky minerals. Big boned with fine grained tannins. Seriously long finish. Needs 15 years of cellaring. (92-93/100)
Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 2018
80% whole bunch and 25% new oak. A delicate bouquet of fragrant rose petals, bright red fruits intertwined with exotic spices and touch of gravel. Knocking of Grand Cru doors in terms of weight, definitely Grand Cru intensity. Sexy and suave. (92/100)
Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru 2018
100% new oak and 100% whole bunch from 80 year old vines. The 2018 Chambertin Clos de Beze is powerful and intense. A densely packed array of dark fruits and fragrant stems, slightly ethereal nose. High toned new oak spices with flirtatious rose petals and slightly green stems. Full-bodied with juicy fruits and aromatic stems. (93+/100)
Bonus Bottles
Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru 2016
2016 suited Domaine Robert Groffier’s winemaking style. A gorgeous bouquet of high toned sweet stems, if tasted blind one might guess it’s from a cooler vintage due to its stemmy characteristics. Fragrant and seductive with and complex bouquet of dark berries, lifted spices and glossed wood toast. Full bodied with good acidity and powerful backbone. Adorable whole cluster scents. (94/100)
Domaine Serge Groffier Gevrey Chambertin 1983
Tasted in Groffier’s cellar. Made by Serge, the father of Nicolas Groffier. Old school rustic tone with vegetal notes (1983 was not the best vintage in Burgundy). Fully mature with gamy scent and dried herbs. Still in good condition. (76/100)