Domaine Duroché is one of the rising stars in Gevrey Chambertin. Since Pierre Duroché completely took over the estate from his father in 2008, the winery has gained lots of attention inside and outside of Burgundy. The estate is located in the centre of Gevrey Chambertin village with a total of 8.5 ha vineyard holding. Pierre is blessed with a selection of prime vineyards in Gevrey Chambertin, a lot of old vines from village lieu-dits to Grand Cru parcels.
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 0.25 ha, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru 0.27 ha, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 0.41 ha, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru 0.01 ha, Lavaut St Jacques Premier Cru 1.20 ha, Estournelles-St-Jacques Premier Cru 0.12 ha, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Champeaux 0.13 ha, Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Etelois 0.34 ha, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jeunes Rois 0.33 ha, Gevrey-Chambertin Champ 0.70 ha, Gevrey-Chambertin Le Clos 0.39 ha, Gevrey-Chambertin 3.15 ha.
Pierre bottles 4 different Gevrey Chambertin village lieu-dits wines as well as a ‘normal’ Gevrey Chambertin, and each of his lieu-dits Gevrey Chambertin are unique and reflects on the terroir exceptionally well.
Pierre emphasised that most of the work is done in the vineyard, and vinification plays a small part in making a good wine. Pierre also practice organically on the vineyard.
All the wines are 100% destemmed except their miniscule production Griotte Chambertin, which is 100% whole cluster. All wines are fermented with natural yeast.
Duroché buys barrels from 5-6 different coopers and only choosing their best woods. Low toast wood (around 4 minute toast but very gentle fire). Overall 5-10% new oak barrels was used across his 2017 Gevrey Chambertin wines. Most wines at Duroché spends 12-13 months ageing in oak. No racking, filtration and fining.
2017 vintage for Duroché
2017 is a vintage marked by the very high yields, everyone in Burgundy was very happy with tank-full of grapes. Duroché’s total production of 2017 went up by 60% compared to 2016. A total of 180 barrels are produced in 2017 compared to 110 in 2016. It is too early to accurately judge the quality of 2017 Pinot Noir. When I asked Pierre Duroche of what he thinks about the 2017 quality across Gevrey Chambertin, he suggested some similarities between 2007 and 2017, but 2017 is richer and grape seeds and stems are brown (ripe).
Tasting Notes (tasted on 19/02/2018)
Note: The 2017 wines have just gone through malolactic fermentation, the wines still needs another year of barrel ageing before being bottled. Please only take the reviews and scores of the 2017 as general guideline.
Gevrey Chambertin village 2017 (Barrel Sample)
The Gevrey Chambertin village comes from a few parcels adding up to a bit more than 3 ha. The production of the 2017 Gevrey Chambertin village is about 19,000 bottles. Twice the size of 2015. Vibrant strawberry, lifted red fruit. Light with good depth. Fairly bright acidity. (83-85/100)
Gevrey Chambertin Les Jeunes Rois 2017 (Barrel Sample)
This village lieu dit parcel is located in Brouchon. Vines planted in 1952, many of the grapes are affected by millerandage. Resulting in more concentration of flavours. The Les Jeunes Rois is slightly more perfumed and concentrated than the Gevrey Chambertin village with juicy strawberries and bright cherries. A good reflection of a cooler climate within Gevrey Chambertin. Good acidity with fair weight. (84-86/100)
Gevrey Chambertin Aux Etelois 2017 (Barrel Sample)
This is one of the most interesting villages in Gevrey Chambertin, Aux Etelois is located right below Griotte Chambertin but is classified as a village. Aux Etelois is a fairly big plot so the quality varies between the exact plot within Etelois. Druoché owns a 0.2 ha plot located just below Duroché’s Griotte Chambertin plot. The vines were planted between 1925 and 1964, they are hugely affected by millerandage. 3-4 barrels were produced in 2017. This is a league above the Les Jeunes Rois, showing a solid depth and concentration. Cool mixed fruits with a subtle sweetness. Vibrant and lifted, showing some complexity already. Knocking on Premier Cru doors. (87-89/100)
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut Saint Jacques 2017 (Barrel Sample)
Duroché owns 1.2 ha of Lavaut Saint Jacques, planted in 1923, 1938 and 1968. There are two cuveés for Lavaux Saint Jacques, the ‘normal’ one and a ‘vieilles vignes’ Lavaut Saint Jacques. This ‘normal’ cuvee is showing a good richness and depth. Pretty rose petals and subtle earth of Gevrey Chambertin. Fairly ripe earthy berries and smoky gravel. A good weight premier cru Gevrey Chambertin with sleek fruity aromas. (89-91/100)
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut Saint Jacques Vieilles Vignes 2017 (Barrel Sample)
This small production wine mainly comes from a 0.30 ha plot planted in 1923 with some grapes from vines planted in 1938. This vieilles vignes cuveeé is mainly sold to Hong Kong through Pearl of Burgundy. This vieilles vignes is richer and more intense than the ‘normal’ Lavaut Saint Jacques. Transparent blackberry, ripe tannins and dense body. (91-93/100)
Charmes Chambertin 2017 (Barrel Sample)
Duroché owns 0.41 ha in Charmes Chambertin, spread around 5 plots in the Aux Charmes part, fairly close to the Chambertin plot. The Charmes Chambertin may not be as deep as the Lavaux Saint Jacques Vieilles Vignes but it is perfumed with a gorgeous layer of red cherries and berries. Fairly good weight, light-footed with a nice balance. (89-92/100)
Chambertin Clos de Beze 2017 (Barrel Sample)
The Clos de Beze is the flagship wine of Domaine Duroché. Duroché owns a vertical stripe of 0.25 ha plot in the centre of Clos de Beze. 4 barrels of Clos de Beze produced in 2016, and 4.5 barrels in 2017. Only 140 bottles of the 2016 Clos de Beze went the UK. The Clos de Beze is a league above the Charmes Chambertin and Lavaut St Jacques. Seriously deep and intense. High percentage of millerandage in his Clos de Beze, giving the wine a fine density. Tightly packed dark fruits with nice array of flowers and red currant. Fine minerals and vibrant spices. Seriously delicious! (93-95/100)
Gevrey Chambertin Village 2016
The 2016 wines are just bottled and it is already so charming already. Scented bouquet of red berries, summer flowers and deep earth. Juicy fruits with a nice depth for village wine. Crunchy gravel and silky tannins This 2016 is showing some resemblance with 2010, maybe a tad more gentle. Lovely complexity for a village Gevrey Chambertin. (86+/100)
Gevrey Chambertin ‘Les Clos’ 2015
This lieu-dit is located next to the Gevrey Chambertin village. A step up from the Gevrey Chambertin 2016, riper and flashier fruits with vibrant perfumes and sexy/juicy berries. Underlying earthy tone with a bit of tension. Excellent reflection of this terroir. (88-89/100)
Gevrey Chambertin Lavaut Saint Jacques 1981
Tasted blind – Gentle meaty and dried fruits suggest some age, possibly from the late 80s? The light tertiary aromas, black tea, game and the lack of ripe tannins suggest it is from a ‘classic’ Burgundy vintage. Fairly light weight with some depth, premier cru Gevrey Chambertin? (84/100)